Disclaimer: This is speculation based on what I've read on the internet. I don't actually know that much about the history of watches, luxury, or luxury watches. If you have knowledge, please email me with more info!
Most watch nerds will spend some time learning about the world of vintage watches. Years ago, upon my first research, I was surprised at the inconsistency of it. Two watches could have the same reference number but look drastically different! It seems there are a few reasons for this, but they can be summarized by appreciating the smaller scale of yesterday's luxury watch industry. They were making fewer watches, and so, the sale cycle was quite different.
A brand would release a catalogue outlining their collections. This would include the variations of the watches: dial colours, lug shapes, handsets, etc. Boutiques would then choose some variations to keep in stock, and individuals could order a watch directly from the brand exactly to their liking.
See this article on vintage Omega Constellations for concrete examples on references and their variations.
My reaction to realizing this was instant disappointment. To customize a watch today requires a relationship with the brand, which is generally only created through consistent purchases (i.e. immense wealth). I find it ironic: the people that get to customize their watches have dozens in their collection. If I, a regular guy, want just one or two watches to last the rest of my life, I have to pick something cookie cutter.
Of course, there are a handful of brands still making bespoke watches. It is rare, and these watches are quite expensive, but some are realistically attainable for many middle-class people (at some point in their lifetime, if they prioritize it). My favourite example is Laine, specifically their V38 Guilloche. Lately I've been dreaming about how I'd spec it if — and hopefully when — I have the funds.
The current plan would be silvered-coloured dial and Breguet numerals, standard lance/leaf hands but heat-treated to purple (seen on their Instagram page, but not listed on their website), Guilloche Pattern A (Panier – Grain de riz – Clou de Paris going from outer dial – inner dial – seconds register), simple frosting on the movement bridges, and a custom logo in the rotor (it's something like the favicon on this page, but I must keep it secret).
----Some more takes:
- Laurent Ferrier's Classic watches have the best case in the game, and the best crown (love that onion)
- Krayon's innovation is amazing, and I wonder if their complications will be co-opted by cheaper upstarts (the Anyday doesn't seem that hard to copy, and the Anywhere is just so cool I think it could be worth it)
- Parmigiani Fleurier is underrated. The Tonda PF collection is, in my opinon, the best overall "integrated bracelet sports watch" overall
- Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak and Vacheron Constantin's 222 are close, and have nicer bracelets, but the Tonda PF's proportions, movement, and simplicity just kill
- Actually I just remembered the Lange Odysseus... that's also up there...
- On the topic of "integrated bracelet steel sports watches", I'm surprised the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Collection is not more popular among young people — this would make so much sense on Young Thug, Future, Yeat and so many more
- I would rather have vintage Tudor than vintage Rolex for the rose logo, old Tudor typography, the same beautiful Oyster cases, and sometimes text that looks like a smiley face on the lower half (example, but I don't like the fluted bezel, gold case, handset or indices on this lol)
- There are not enough flat-bezel'd watches. Kikuchi Nakagawa is the only one I can think of in the world of haute horology. Beyond luxury, Baltic's MR01 is an option, but both deviate from the inspiration (Patek Philippe's original Calatrava, the 96 or 570) in an important way: the bezels are polished rather than radially brushed. This makes it way flashier, and in my opinion, almost ruins the watch. I am very close to adding the Baltic MR01 to my "to-buy" list. I've accepted the off-centre seconds subdial, but I just don't know if I can reconcile with the polished bezel. The only place I've seen it done right is on The Archiwatch, which also gives some models the leaf hands I adore. Of course, these (like Kikuchi Nakagawa's timepieces) are extremely difficult to acquire. If you know of any watches with brushed and flat bezels, please let me know! I'm sure more exist, especially vintage ones, but I'm not sure how to find them.
- Modern Cartier has painfully declined (Old Santos > new, Tank Normale > any other Tank), and vintage Cartier has become overpriced (trendy)
- Constant force movement modifications are better and cooler than a tourbillon (Fusee and Chain movements are sick)
- Power reserve indicators are good, and should be more common — especially on manually-wound watches
- Spring Drive is super cool, but the watches that have it just aren't that compelling to me
- I love micro-rotors